Infrastructure Improvements

We’ve made a number of improvements over the Summer. Some we’ve already covered. Some not. We’re making progress, albeit slowly. The main focus is getting trains running again, and to do that, we need to start laying track again, not pulling it back up.

Something that’s been bothering me is the lack of progress on setting the last batch of roadbed bricks in place. It’s been a couple of months since the last batch of bricks was cast and laid in position. That’s mostly on me for not improving the state of the garage. It’s in no shape to work on any project. Not until recently anyway.

I’ll save how the garage and the office were updated with new shelving and other improvements for another post. To say the least, the casting bench is ready for action. And speaking of casting, it’s time to set those roadbed bricks in place then cast more and place them.

Some Filaments Are More UV Resistant Than Others
Some Filaments Are More UV Resistant Than Others

If you remember from the Roadbed Bricks – Round Three post, some of those 3D printed ballast profile molds had warped and yellowed from the UV exposure. What’s left of them are sitting in a bucket outside the carriage doors of the garage. So the “then cast more” part is going to have to wait.

Setting The Bricks

We’ll get back to that later. Now it’s time to set the rest of those bricks in place. They’ve been lying there on top of what’s left of the artificial turf that needs cut back to make room for them. Time to better protect that 14# power feed cable in the process by “hiding” it under the turf next to the bricks.

My “wheelie cart” helps save me from having to crawl around on my hands and knees. Lately my knees painfully remind me I’m not getting any younger. In the spirit of “there’s always something else that needs done first”, the tires need inflated. They’re not quite flat, but they could definitely use some air.

My Helper As Always
My Helper As Always

I grab the Dremel saw bag and the retractable extension cord and get that ready to go while waiting for the compressor to build up pressure. The retractable air hose makes it easy to fill the tires just outside the side garage door. Much better!

The first thing I find once I get going is most of the four bricks are already sitting right on the dirt. If it weren’t for that black “weed control” fabric and just a wedge of turf, they could be set right in place, if the dirt had been moved anyway. Time for the yard cart… Which is full of water!

Well, not all the way full, but Hurricane Debby dropped a good amount of rain on us. Easy enough to dump it out and roll it over to the job site. I made sure when I ordered the new Gorilla Cart™ it came with the solid tires. No worrying about flats!

A couple of quick cuts with the Dremel saw make quick work of that turf wedge. And the black fabric can be pulled out of the way enough to set those first four bricks in place. It takes a few tries to remove enough dirt and test fit the contour for each brick.

The First Four At The Job Site
The First Four At The Job Site

Annoyances

That fabric certainly is annoying though. Not only does it NOT stop the weeds from growing, it’s so flexible it’s nearly impossible to cut with the Dremel saw! The one thing it DOES do well is keep the seams between the sections of turf from “puckering”, for lack of a better term.

Puckering describes the way the dirt washes away at the seam and builds up under either side, like lips puckering. At this point, it’s no longer necessary with the bricks in place. The work progresses a brick or two at a time while cutting away the turf and fabric and fitting them in place.

By the time I’m finishing up, the shade has disappeared. The new umbrella Ann got me is working fine to block the sun though. It wouldn’t have taken so long if it weren’t for the post and remnants of the stringer that were in the way and had to be removed.

The Stretch To The Switch Set In Place
The Stretch To The Switch Set In Place

Unfortunately that left a patch of dirt exposed leading up to the switch. Thankfully a chunk of turf previously cut out of the way covers it and fits the bill quite nicely. It will be good enough until the next batch of bricks is ready to finish that stretch.

But Wait, There’s More

But it’s not done yet. There are three more bricks on the other end of the “cast in place” failure. Alright, it wasn’t a total failure, but it ain’t very pretty and that’s for sure. These three fit between the other end of the “cast in place” section and the end of the previous batch of bricks.

It’s a bit harder to get the turf cut this time because of the surroundings. On one end is the the previous batch of bricks and the other is cast in place concrete. But the most difficult part is the tight squeeze getting everything to fir in that space!

That end brick from the last batch actually had the corner crack off, but it doesn’t want to go back in place without a fight, or leaving a gap. After more finagling, and even more stomping, they finally fit. Probably best not to disturb the bricks already placed last time around.

The Last Of The Batch Set In Place
The Last Of The Batch Set In Place

Levelling Up

Next up is levelling that 4×4 that sits proud of the first batch of bricks. All those 4x4s along the lower loop started out level when first installed. Over time they settled, heaving or slumping in the process. Every one of them sit on dirt with the exception of the one sitting proud.

That 4×4 sits proud because it’s resting on a wedge of turf. A wedge of turf that should have been cut out of the way when it was first installed a few years back. The time has come. But first the 10′ section of flex track that sits on top of it has to be removed.

This allows access for refitting the 4×4 to sit lower and level with its neighbor and the first round of bricks. Turns out not only is there one wedge, there’s two! A convergence, where two different sections of turf meet. This discovery forces removing the first batch bricks, disturbing the pile of rubble they sat on.

After struggling with getting the high spot out of the middle and trying to eliminate the rocking motion, the 4×4 finally sits flat and at the proper level. Getting that rubble and the bricks to sit flat and level is even more of a struggle, but eventually everything lines up.

Many Infrastructure Items Resolved
Many Infrastructure Items Resolved

More Levelling

Unfortunately that 4×4 wasn’t the only one that needed attention. Ann had been working in the front yard, adding pavers and removing dirt to do so. She nearly filled the dump cart and I dumped that dirt where the track leaves the deck. The idea is to build up the terrain there.

After removing the section of track, I backed the heavy dump cart over the 4×4 and released the latch to dump the dirt. Why does this matter? Those aren’t the 4x4s that need levelled! It’s the ones in front of the deck step. Yet another 10′ section of flex track needs moved.

Thankfully this time the turf didn’t need trimmed, but it did need pulled out of the way while adjusting the 4x4s.  While I still have the track out of the way, it’s time to trim the turf along the 4×4 that staircases the terrain where the dirt was dumped.

Dirt Terraced And Track Laid On Levelled 4x4s
Dirt Terraced And Track Laid On Levelled 4x4s

The cutoff piece of turf isn’t quite big enough cover all the dirt, there’s still an exposed patch, but it’s mostly covered. Time to put the track back together. Of course, the Split Jaw™ couplers needed new socket head bolts to replace the bent, mangled originals.

Thankfully the track just falls into place, having retained their shape from using the rail bender when they were first installed. The hold down screws are left out for now with the idea that some 1×2 blocking will be fabricated to hold the rail in place.

For now, even the end that was uneven drops right into place. It doesn’t even take concrete blocks like it did months ago. It probably would have waited, except the Bozos that installed the new copper A/C line set grabbed them and used them for seats and step stools.

The Track Finally Fits The Roadbed Bricks
The Track Finally Fits The Roadbed Bricks

Sour Grapes

Definitely some sour grapes there. First of all, who told them they could use those blocks? And they didn’t even put them back where they got them! I had to download the security camera videos just to know whether they took them with them when they left.

Second, but more importantly, who misdiagnosed the leak was in the line set to begin with? Nothing like having to pay $1500 for a non repair! Still leaking and no A/C a day later, in Florida, in the middle of August no less! Ends up needing a brand new condensing coil and we get to pay to have that installed too!

Guess I should be happy we finally got someone that knew what they were doing. So frustrating paying supposed “professionals” to have it done right and I end up knowing more than they do! I’m paying you to fix it so I don’t have to!

Broken Stringer And Extra Track Removed
Broken Stringer And Extra Track Removed

But enough whining. I don’t need them to hold the track down anymore, and that was the goal. To keep the puppies from poking their eyes out, I removed the sagging 3′ straight track section and the broken stringer that was no longer holding it up.

I left the plastic pipe to mark where the track goes in preparation for the upcoming trestle work. You can see from the pictures how much more track work remains. Next step is to add back more of the 10′ flex track sections into the roadbed bricks.

Still struggling with the decision to use wooden or metal for the trestle and bridges. It may end up being 3D printed PETG that looks like metal, but still have to experiment with PETG and its durability when exposed to the elements. Time will tell.

“Then Cast More”

I promised to say more about the “then cast more” part of the discussion. One of the things accomplished when making the casting bench operational was to cut the 8′ long pieces of the roadbed brick casting forms into two sets 4′ long.

They’re sitting on the casting bench waiting to be reassembled. I’m still looking for another chunk of 2×6 that’s 4′ long to create a third 4′ long form. I’ve also 3D printed at least three more ballast profile molds for that section, but will probably need more

More to come, so stay tuned!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A New Trestle From The Deck

We recently raised up the deck by an extra 3½” with the thought of placing new bridges high enough off the ground so the dogs can safely navigate beneath them, without hurting them or themselves. The next step is to raise up the track to match the new deck and bridge height. The problem is the wooden stringers. You guessed it, they’re rotted.

The wooden stringers were a means to an end, and that end was to run trains. Needless to say it’s impossible to run trains when there’s no track to run on. The track is, well, was secured to the stringers every 8″. But not anymore… With two dogs we could barely keep ahead of them and the maintenance. With three it’s a losing battle.

It’s hard to describe how much destruction the pups have caused to the Barkyard Railroad. Imagine most of the track on the ground from the bridges to downtown missing, parts and stretches ripped loose and removed a little at a time, until there’s no track left. Nothing left but the stringers, if they hadn’t already rotted away that is.

A New Approach

It’s obvious that the previous track arrangement no longer fits our needs. We need a new approach. While the roadbed brick production is ramping up to remedy the situation, we still can’t keep up with the destruction of the track on the ground.

Even so, the roadbed bricks can’t address the elevated stretches of track and stringers that need attention. The plan has always been to replace certain elevated stretches with trestles. The time has come. The old infrastructure allowed us to run trains until it didn’t. No regrets.

Soon to be Trestle
Soon to be Trestle

We’re no strangers to scratch building trestles. At least not the straight kind. We even scratch built a four foot long Howe truss bridge. It used to stretch across a pond with a waterfall. But like everything else, it didn’t hold up to the dogs or time.

The new part to all of this is the curved aspect. All the jigs and such we made way back when only deal with straight (tangent) sections. If you’d like to know more about the history of the railroad, you can refer to the Bit of History section below.

This trestle from the deck will have both 14′ and 20′ diameter curved sections, along with the tangent sections. So far there’s a design for the 14′ diameter sections, already 3D printed and ready for testing.

There’s added complexity in addition to the curvature. The trestle has to rise at more than a 2% grade, a full 6″ over 23′ of track. From 18″ at the deck to 24″ at the bridge. Previously the ruling grade was kept to 1%, but that’s out the window with the triple decker (re)arrangement of the upper loop.

Trestle Bents With 14' Curve Jig
Trestle Bents With 14′ Curve Jig (Shown in White)

The Particulars

To put things in perspective, each bent must rise above the previous by 3⁄16″, and each bent is about 8″ from the last, for roughly a 2.34% grade. For the 14′ diameter curves there are four bents per track section, 16 per circle, roughly 32″ long and 22.5° per section.

By the time the fifth bent is reached, the track has climbed ¾” from the start. The plan is to make the bents for each section all the same height, and account for the rise by increasing the height of the footings, to be cast of concrete. Each footing will be roughly 2″ x 2″ x 16″ long, adding 3⁄16″ with each successive footing.

The footings are reset to 2″ when the next track section is reached, again grown by 3⁄16″, and height of the bents for that next section increased by ¾”. The photo doesn’t do a very good job of showing it, but there are six 14′ diameter track sections, then a 20′ diameter track section, followed by a 3′ tangent section.

But that’s a lot of talk with no pictures to show what we’re talking about.

Arrangement of Increasingly Taller Footings with Single Height Bents
Arrangement of Increasingly Taller Footings with Single Height Bents

The previous bridge approach trestles sat loosely on concrete block “caps”, roughly 2″x8″x16″, placed together and leveled. Nothing attached the approach trestles to the block caps. They were free to be repositioned every time the dogs smacked into them.

And smack into them they did! I don’t know how many times I would find the approach trestles upended or cocked at an angle, with the track and the bridges on the ground. We’re hoping to anchor the bents to the footings this time around to at least slow down the “remodeling”, pun intended.

New Needs Means New Jigs

So far only the jigs for the 14′ diameter curves are reality. The design for the 20′ diameter section along with the tangent section will begin soon. The design is made up of a number of identical parts with a handful of unique parts to address the areas where specific size and shape is necessary.

The trestle jig parts either press fit or snap together. The only gluing required is to attach the progressively taller adapters to the standard bases. This is only necessary to allow 3D printing of all the parts without needing supports.

The standard base cradles the bottom of the trestle bent in a 3⁄16″ deep notch. Because the base is only 8″ wide and a standard 20″ tall bent is nearly 16″ wide at its base, the jig has index marks to align with the bent’s center leg.

Each standard base has two legs designed to press fit into the next. Each base is at an angle to the next. Each successive base is 3⁄16″ taller than the last, hence the glued on adapters. The first base has no legs and needs no adapter.

Testing 14' Diameter Curved Trestle Jig
Testing 14′ Diameter Curved Trestle Jig

The design provides alignment for five trestle bents and stretches over 32″. Next are the cross arms that hold the bents vertical. There are two sets of cross arms, one set for the inner curve, and one set for the outer.

Each set has its own inside and outside components that snap together in the middle. These cross arm assemblies then snap onto the legs that connect the standard bases together. The arms have a block, a peg of sorts, that fits in the ½” gap in the horizontal members of the bent section.

Of course, now that I’ve 3D printed an entire set, it occurs to me that this will only work for those bents that have a complete section at the bottom! DUH! But this is why we mock up the models and test fit. Back to the drawing board!

This further reinforces the shortcomings of trying to consider everything from just the drawing board. My need to have hands on pieces to manipulate and consider other options that never would have come to mind is the reason why we’re testing the designs before committing to them.

Close Up of Base and Cross Arm Interaction
Close Up of Base and Cross Arm Interaction

Model vs. Prototype Considerations

There are many more considerations, like limitations of models as compared with the real thing. For the sake of this discussion, it’s not limited to just modelling, but modelling a prototypical railroad.

Curves

As with any model railroad, some “allowances” are made for the model compared to prototypical practices. The best example is that of curvature. Most model curves are far tighter than anything in the real world. Prototypical curves are far straighter than anything we have the space to model.

Track also doesn’t just change dramatically from tangent (straight) to curved. The use of easement curves on the prototype helps ease the train into the curve without abruptly slamming everything into a corner. Think of a spiral that goes from nearly straight to tighter and tighter curves.

Our tightest curves are ten feet in diameter, huge compared to the toy like four foot diameter curves. Even so, 10′ diameter curves are really beyond anything seen on the prototype, including the tightest industrial sidings and spurs.

Those 10′ diameter curves are only used where space is at a premium on our pike, like the station spur and the tight fit of the mainline behind the shed. Everywhere else, we simulate an easement by starting with a 20′ diameter curve leading into the 14′ diameter sections.

That doesn’t help much when they’re all 20′ diameter sections though. Other parts of the layout are “flex track” which allows us to bend it to any curvature. Here we’re able to ease in to the curve by slowly increasing the force when using the rail bender, creating a more gradual curve.

Trestles

So why all this talk about curves? Beyond the modelling consequences related to track alone, it also influences modelling the structures that support and convey the track off the ground. In this case, trestles. And because the curves are tighter than on the prototype, allowances must be made for those structures too.

The way the prototype did things, each bent grew from the top down, growing the length of the legs as necessary. This leads to sections of standard height, with only the lowest portion varying from one bent to the next. We chose scale twenty foot section heights, or 10″ each at 1:24 (half dollhouse) scale.

The key take away from this is everything is designed from the track level down when it comes to a trestle, each section depending on the one below it, in a standardized fashion. The reason for this top down design is to ensure the stringers are directly supported by each bent without the need for shimming.

The rail stringers are perched atop the bents directly because the bents are built exactly as tall as required. Shims would diminish the strength and stability of the structure. These stringers are made up of staggered members, whose lengths span three bents, landing on the two outside bents in a joint.

This is to ensure there is at least one solid member at every joint atop a bent, and bolted together, again to increase strength and rigidity. There’s a stringer beneath each rail, generally with three individual members to provide redundancy for failure of any one of them, and each spaced apart to provide an air space so water is not trapped between them.

Making Allowances

So why does that matter to us? It all goes back to the discussion about curves and the allowances we need to make in our models. That staggering works great for tangent track, but not so much for curved track on our model. The prototype spacing between stringer members is around 3″. That’s 1⁄8″ in scale.

Unfortunately, the spacing between the members on the curved sections far exceeds 1⁄8″! At scale, each 8″x18″ member is roughly 5⁄16″ x ¾”. Over the 32′ length, a scale 16″, the overlap would be more than ¾”. That’s more than double the scale 5⁄16″ thickness of each member!

That means the stringer members can only span between bents without a noticeable deformation that would look totally out of scale. Of course, the shorter than prototypical member length will also be noticeable, but not as much so once the tie strips are in place.

Generally the prototype used longer ties to provide a walkway of sorts on at least one side of the track. These longer ties, bridge ties, are also more closely spaced on a bridge or a trestle. That along with a railing made it much safer to walk along the track that high off the ground.

Back in the days of steam, red hot cinders could fall from the ash pan onto the trestle timbers and set them on fire. A fire barrel filled with water or sand was placed every so often along the walkway, on even longer ties so as not to block the walkway, to provide a ready means to extinguish a fire.

Model track comes with one option, standard length ties. For that reason, a slide for the table saw was created that allows notching wooden “guard rails” to fit over the ends of the wooden bridge ties to be assembled into 8″ tie strips, long enough to span between two bents.

Unfortunately, that only works for tangent track sections. It would need reworked to accommodate curved sections if not totally remade just for curves. In this case, I was overly obsessed with true to prototype realism in my modelling.

That’s a holdover from my HO scale days where anything that’s out of scale stands out like a sore thumb, making everything look toy like. It definitely kills the illusion of realism. In the case of the notched tie strip guard rails, not all railroads notch them.

For the sake of simplicity and rapid production, the Barkyard Railroad will no longer notch its guard rails.

 

A Bit of History

Back when we first moved here to Mount Dora in 2014, we had to tear up all the track we had laid at the old house in Wekiva. There were plenty of projects that took priority over getting the railroad out of mothballs and back up and running. Slowly but surely we renovated pretty much the entire house.

One of the earlier renovations was the garage. With just two stripes of concrete and a dirt floor, it was a carriage house in every sense of the word, complete with carriage doors. You guessed it, they were rotted and needed totally replaced.

But first we had to do something about that dirt floor. It was like silt, a very fine mix of dirt and sand, stirred up into a cloud at the least provocation, sticking to our legs, ankles, and feet. Better plan on taking a shower if working in the garage.

Adding a Floor to the Carriage House
Adding a Floor to the Carriage House

Nick helped us install a plywood floor over the dirt, using the foundation blocks and concrete stripes to support a 2×4 framework covered with ¾” tongue and groove plywood. Benches soon followed along with a new table saw.

About that time we had to replace the dilapidated fence between us and our neighbor to the west. Most of the fence panels were rotted away to nothing, but some of the wood that still had some life left in it was saved as raw material for building trestle bents.

Early Trials

It was a brave new world learning to use the new table saw and fashioning a crude template to hold the pieces of a trestle bent together while assembling it. In case you’re wondering, a trestle is made up of individual trestle bents, lashed together with horizontal girts and diagonal cross braces.

The bents themselves have their own cross braces and other means of securing the legs together which divide the bent into multiple sections. So the crude template used small chunks of wood, strategically placed, and screwed to a chunk of plywood.

Assembled Bents
Assembled Bents

Repeatability was questionable at best. That is to say no two bents were interchangeable. Originally each of the legs was cut individually, and required new setups for the three different angles in involved. Getting a repeatable length was nearly impossible.

It soon became apparent that a better quality template was necessary. The new template was custom cut on the table saw to the correct angles, making dado cuts to hold the entire length of the legs in position, along with the horizontal joining members.

Other changes were made to increase productivity as well. The new design accommodates using the template as a “sled” for the table saw to trim all legs to the proper angle and length in one operation. Runners to fit in the T-slots were attached to the back, holding it in perfect alignment with the saw table.

That Was Then, This Is Now

All that seems so far away now, around Halloween of 2015, sitting in the living room, assembling trestle bents into an approach trestle for the scratch build Howe truss bridge. Fast forward to the task at hand today. The simplistic jigs I fashioned back then for holding the bents together did little to align or secure them in place.

And they were only meant for the straight sections to boot. Back then I would have been happy to have even the tangent trestle I built survive, but too many other things had to happen first, and many false starts, before we could think about a permanent garden railroad.

Again, permanent is a relative term. The dogs and the elements would beg to differ with the “permanent” moniker.

There is much more to come. Stayed tuned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lifting The Deck

Let’s start with the obvious question, “Why lift the deck?” Good question. Glad you asked.

The main reason has nothing to do with the deck and everything to do with the dogs and the bridges… Well, what used to be the bridges.

Let’s rewind…

When we originally built the approach trestles for the Howe truss bridge, they were built 20″ tall, roughly forty scale feet tall. After we refit the upper loop into the “triple decker” arrangement, we needed a second bridge. We didn’t have a second bridge.

The Howe truss bridge was built over the course of months, with strong attention to detail, which explains why it took months. We don’t have months to build another, let alone time to “refresh” the old one. Not if we want to run trains anyway.

We’d been wanting to try using some metal channels as a stand in for deck plate girder bridge spans. We saved the metal channels from some discarded Levolor® blinds, the tops with the mechanisms removed, conveniently powder coated brown.

Long story short, we quickly cobbled together a couple of crude wooden frames to slide inside the channels and provide a means of securing the two new bridge spans to the set of bridge trestle approaches. Those crude wooden frames were attached to the trestles with screws to keep them in place.

Makeshift Deck Plate Girder Spans

The Problem

The trestles themselves weren’t fastened to the ground in any shape or form, so when the dogs plowed into the bridges, they just repositioned the whole kit and kaboodle! Eventually they managed to rip one of the bridge spans loose, exposing the sharp end of the screw that was torn away from the trestle.

Time to remove them altogether, along with the 10′ span of track that we’ve grown weary of placing back on top of the bridges. We kept telling ourselves if only the bridges were higher, with enough clearance for the dogs to run under them without hitting them, then they may stand a chance of staying where we put them.

Great idea. Only problem is the span that comes off the deck leading up to the bridges is already a 2% grade or better. The bridges would have to be at least 4″ taller, 24″ vs. 20″, but 26″ would be better. If we raised the deck by 4″ as well, it would solve the problem.

The Solution

We’ll stick with “lifting” the deck, since “raising” the deck sounds too much like we’re “razing” the deck. And we’ll have to compromise and go with lifting it 3½”, the thickness of a 4×4, rather than 4″. Regardless of how much we’re lifting it, it must remain level.

As a test, I thought I could lift the deck at one support point at a time while Ann placed a thick shim of wood between it and the deck. I was fooling myself about how heavy the deck is. Even using a chunk of 2×4 as a lever, the most we could place was a chunk of 1×6.

First Attempt To Lift By Hand

We did manage to get one entire side lifted, but it was all we could do to get those chunks of 1×6 in place, and now the deck is tiling a bit off level. That will have to be good enough for now. It’s going to take a hydraulic jack to lift the deck enough to place those 4x4s. And that will have to wait until the weekend.

Before the jack can be used, we’ll need some means to accommodate its placement. It sure would be nice if it fit beneath the lifting points, but it doesn’t. It’s close, but no cigar. A chunk of 2×2 that needs removed anyway should fit the bill. In most cases just attaching the 2×2 to provide enough of a “ledge” for the tip of the jack to gain purchase is all we need. So one by one each support location is raised and the chunk of 1×6 is replaced by a chunk of 4×4.

Deck Lifted 3½”

The Lift

It’s safe to say that where the deck rests directly atop the concrete post base a chunk of 4×4 is called for and where the deck joist rests in the slot in the base a chunk of 2×6 is required. On the side of the deck closer to the fence the ground is higher than the opposite side which is why part of the deck relies on the slots in the base. Thankfully the depth of the slot in the base is roughly 2″ deep.

There’s a hitch when it comes to lifting the side closest to the fence. The part of the deck that’s supposed to emulate an excavated rock face with a tunnel beneath for the lower loop is nowhere near complete. We’re still working on “what-if” scenarios, trying to figure out what works. The idea is to have a gristmill with a waterwheel fed by a waterfall, eventually, but we’ll save that for another post.

The other “feature” of that part of the deck is that it’s slotted to provide a path for the track to loop back under itself, creating the “triple decker”. That slot is framed on either side by a  separate 2×6 joist, each with its own post base. We purposefully made that section of the deck only 6′ wide and angled away from the line of the fence to provide a wedge shape that grows to nearly 2′ wide at the exit of the track slot.

The final shape may not be a wedge exactly since it also needs to provide for a short tunnel for the lower loop to pass through. It’s difficult to find a design that accommodates all the requirements we’re giving it. The point is there are two jacking points, not just the one. That’s where that 2×2 had to be removed since it would be in the way of jacking those points.

Two Support Points Surround The Slot

The Future

That’s about all we can do for now. The next steps will be designing the trestle approach to the bridges and a means of solidly fastening it to the ground. Certainly hope that 24″ tall is enough to keep those bridges taller than the dogs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Making Trestle Bents

 

Our First Post

This will be our first blog post ever and we’re excited! Just as eager to get our garden railroad off the ground and running, we’ll need a reason for it to be off the ground. And that reason would be a bridge. A bridge over something. And to get from the ground up to that bridge we’ll need an approach trestle.

Many folks have many different ways of creating a trestle. Even the different railroads had different ways of doing it, right down to the trestle bents. What’s a trestle bent? Well, there’s plenty of information online, but simplistically it’s the individual “tower” structure that is repeated and lashed together with the rest to create an assembly called a trestle.

The key word here is repeated. Most folks agree that a jig will help immensely when repeatedly constructing all those trestle bents needed to assemble a trestle. I’d be happy to make just one bent to start with, but know that I’ll need many more than that, so I make my first cut at making a jig.

Having just replaced the fence between us and our new neighbor here in Mount Dora, I have plenty of well weathered “scrap” wood to rip into the raw materials I’ll need. I start by ripping the scale 6×12 and 12×12 members I’ll need to cobble together that jig.

Our First Jig

Starting with a chunk of ½” plywood, the main “T” portion is aligned, then the angled members drawn in at 5° and 10°, respectively. The straps are drawn in every 10″, a scale 20′ at “half doll house scale”. What’s half doll house scale? Well, if “doll house scale” is one inch represents one foot, or 1:12, then half doll house scale is a ½” represents a foot, or 1:24.

Some would argue that G scale is 3⁄8″ represents a foot, 1:32. USA Trains uses 1:29. Since the Bachmann Big Haulers we have are supposedly 3′ narrow gauge, that would be 1:20.3, sometimes called F scale. I use 1:24 because it makes the math easy and it’s closer to F scale.

Add to that our goal of sharing the space with the “pups” – everything must be built much stronger than normal in order to withstand a direct impact from a hundred pound German Shepherd at full gait. A 12×12 post that is a ½” thick is stronger than one 3⁄8″, so there you have it.

Back to that chunk of ½” plywood… We’ll call a jig for now. Short pieces of the ½” thick scale 12x12s are attached with self tapping screws on either side of the five posts to act as guides. More are placed to help keep the top beam in position. The template helps hold the pieces in alignment during gluing and assembly, but it has shortcomings that must be worked around.

Cutting those posts to exact length proves to be another challenge. No matter how carefully cut, their lengths are just enough different to force hand selection of each piece. So much for assembly line efficiency!

The scale 6×12 pier sills that delineate each new section of the bent and associated scale 3×10 cross bracing must be attached from the top side and bent then removed from the jig to attach to the other side since no provision was made for them in the jig. Brass brads are used to simulate what would be nuts and bolts on the prototype.

The brass will weather to a dull brown to simulate rusted hardware, yet survive for years without further corrosion as iron or steel would.

Actually, the cross bracing is added last, hand cut to fit and tacked into place using some HO scale track nails! Those will rust away to nothing eventually, but they were only meant to hold the sills in place until the glue cured, and will provide a realistic rusted patina over time.

Our First Bent

Our First Bent
Our First Bent

This is all brand new, so I’m learning as I go. Ann isn’t very happy with me assembling these in the living room, but there is nowhere else that I can. The garage was really just the old carriage house, two strips of concrete over a dirt floor, with no lights or electricity whatsoever. We’ve added a wood floor, a side door in place of the old window, electricity and lights.

But it’s still a work in progress. I’m fairly limited without an easily accessible workshop. Thankfully most operations are limited to drilling pilot holes and tapping in brads after gluing the pieces together. I need a few quick clamps here and there to hold things together, but manage to get the first bent assembled.

After trying to remove the bent and reinsert it face down, it’s obvious that the jig isn’t even symmetric! It may have drawbacks, but at least I can assemble bents for testing and assessing other operations, such as assembling multiple bents into a trestle.

 

Assembled Bents
Assembled Bents

This post is a woefully foreshortened version of all the research and planning required. Some railroads used poles in place of posts. Some used four posts rather than five. Other configurations exist, such as those for two mainlines, with more vertical posts than one. This design is a compromise between the differences and meant for a single track.

It may not be symmetric, and it may not be pretty, but it’s a start. Next up is determining how to stain and seal the bents while giving the impression of creosoted posts and beams. Stay tuned for further developments.